The path to Coney was pretty simple, the N train all the way from Times Square/42nd Street to the last stop Coney Island. The journey takes approximately 40 minutes, and covers about 33 stops. It travels along the Manhattan Bridge with beautiful views of the Brooklyn Bridge and the Manhattan Skyline before ducking and weaving back underground until popping back to the Cosby houses in Brooklyn!
Along the journey a voiceover came on that I just couldn’t make out. Given that I am ‘a local’ the man sitting next to me enquired what was just said and what line were we crossing to. I had to apologize as I had no idea what was said, not that I didn’t know! The voiceover came again and all around me there were groans, moans and out popped the berries and iPhone's!
The ‘N’ train was becoming the ‘D’ train and would not be stopping at all the stops. At one point, half the subway commuters jumped off. Only myself, and those carrying beach gear, fishing rods, and bibs and bobs were not concerned.
About 15 minutes into the journey I had my first skip of the heartbeat moment on a Subway. There was a very tall angry man in socks and flip flops (that alone was scary enough) starting to kick the train doors and punched the glass just to my right. Fortunately I didn’t yelp, or make any sudden movements but I did have a moment of “oh oh.” The lady on my left moved, a man in front of me shook his head, and I just kept my sunglasses on and averted any eye contact. The man was clearly unstable and even in his angry state his ‘inside voice’ was on maximum volume. He got on his phone and screamed down the line about having “expletive nothing”, “expletive expletive rich dead parents”, “I’m not staying at any expletive shelter” and so on. Not being selfish, but he was pretty distracting to my otherwise pleasant journey and stayed right to the end of Coney.
I’m not quite sure what I expected of Coney Island. I had read about it in my trusty guides, but the main recollection of this iconic place the black man and Jared Leto from the movie Requiem for a Dream dragging a television set along the Boardwalk!
The weather was still overcast and dark, but for the first time since being here it was the first time I felt a true breeze without the humidity. It was refreshing coming across the ocean, bringing with it the smell of salt, sand and…HOT DOGS! The first thing you see when you head out the Subway is Nathan’s Hot Dogs, home of the July 4th Hot Dog eating competition. This year’s winner Joey Chetnutt won this after consuming 54 hot dogs (and buns) in 10 minutes! Mind you, they had it on the news here, and they dip the dogs and buns in water and shove it down their faces. There is nothing pleasant or glamorous about it at all. (The winner gets 10k though) and while thinking of that as I was walking towards the boardwalk, I had a chuckle as the barf-a-rama moment in the movie Stand by Me with the Blueberry Pies came to mind!
Given the weather and it was mid week, it was pretty quiet save for a lot of summer camp kids. All clearly distinguishable with their camp t-shirts and ratio’s of about 20 kids to 1 adult screaming for attention. My teacher friends would shudder in their undies with that thought!
I wouldn’t feel too comfortable walking towards the boardwalk at the end of the evening. There are a lot of arcades boarded up, and sadly not a lot of movement. I imagine on weekends and perhaps even in its heyday it was awash with colour and a lot more atmosphere. (And probably the Mermaid Parade Day!) Having said that, walking along the boardwalk the noise is a mix of carnival sounds, music blaring from the one or two basketball arcades, shooting arcades, throw the ping pong ball in a glass to win a fish type places open and the faint shouts of Pina Colada, get your Pina Colada, Daiquiris…free refills here…from the booths operating on the boardwalk.
I was able to have my Requiem for a Dream moment when I saw the Parachute Jump on the boardwalk.
The ride was based on real parachutes which were held open by rings as you floated up and down. Looking it up when I got back: the ride was made of twelve steel arms sprout from the top of the tower, each of which supported a parachute attached to a lift rope and a set of surrounding guide cables. Riders were belted into a two-person canvas seat hanging below the closed chute, and then hoisted to the top, where a release mechanism would drop them, the descent slowed only by the parachute. Shock absorbers at the bottom, consisting of pole-mounted springs, cushioned the landing.
Advertisements for Burlesque and Freak Circus Shows are adorned on every pole and area between Coney Island Boardwalk and Brighton Beach. Perhaps if I was with someone I would have popped into a show, but knowing my luck, going by myself would’ve resulted me ending up on stage!
After a few hours and after the sun made its appearance, I headed back to Manhattan, with a goal to stop at Union and 14th Street towards Madison Square Park and the Flat Iron District.
The Flat Iron building is uncannily pretty. After nudging my way past the ethnic student groups and taking a few pictures, I opted for one of the free steel table and chairs to just sit and look at the general area and building. After sitting for a while and people watching, I heard the panic voices of a couple of English tourists behind me. They were discussing whether they should call the police about the “jumper.” I let them talk about it for a bit longer, before I leant back and advised them that there wasn’t one “jumper” but several, as I pointed out the various bronze statues a top not only the Flat Iron building itself, but many in the area.
“So how long’ve you lived in New York” Daffyd…the only gay in the village asked me (I swear he was a dead ringer for him!!)
“Um, just over a month” ... not a lie…
Mrs. Bucket thumps Daffyd and says “well thank goodness for this lassie, least she stopped us from lokin ike pillocks”
I chuckled and took that opportunity to say goodbye to the cute English couple who thanked me again as I was leaving!
Look at the very top slightly to the left…
The artist Antony Gormley has created this art called Event Horizon. A series of bronze statues based on his own figure which he has placed on building tops and sidewalks adjoining Madison Square Park and the Flatiron District. Apparently there are 20 – 30 of these statues and I look forward to keeping my eyes out next time I am out that way. He has set up a competition on his website to spot the statues and take some creative photos.
On my visit Friday, I was asked for directions on three separate occasions! Once when I was heading out the PABT towards Times Square, the second in Times Square itself (asked by an American so that was even better) and the third time on the subway, whether the subway went to a particular spot. I was very excited to be able to help on all three occasions! Well you could imagine then, how much of a goof I felt after walking up and down 49th and 8th Street looking for the Crumpler shop, only to find when I got back that it is located at shop 49 on 8th Street! Ho hum… still couldn’t wipe the smile off my face! I know Times Square and surrounds better than the Naked Cowboy. (Okay maybe I best not get too cocky! :)
The paths of errands were in the same general direction give or take an avenue, but between 5th – 8th. Despite my misgivings of having gotten the details for Crumpler wrong, I was still happy to continue on my merry way to 55th and 8th to see if Jerry was right…would my knees buckle as I ate the soup?!
After receiving my fancy little package (haha George…I got my free bread….and grapes, a strawberry and a lindt chocolate!) I literally gave a little whoop and headed across the road to some vacant tables and chairs. I love the fact that in a big city like New York, there are always aluminum or wooden chairs and tables about the place! Awesome!
I ordered the Shrimp Corn Chowder and I wasn’t disappointed. Big chunks of shrimp in a chili infused corn chowder. I thought I might regret not getting the gazpacho given the weather but I was not disappointed. Like Elaine, I was pretty pleased to be sitting down to eat my soup!
Maybe it was the soup, maybe it was the satisfaction that there was soup for me, but I continued to walk and walk and walk. All in all I had walked 19 blocks and before I knew it I was at Columbus Circle admiring Trump International Hotel and Tower and one of the many entrances to Central Park. Given there is so much to see in and around the area, I only walked past the Time Warner Centre and didn’t even peek into Central Park.
In the distance I saw my first Gossip Girl haunt. The Empire Hotel purchased by the ever sexy Chuck Bass. For non Gossip Girl fans the hotel is sexy anyway! Not only does it feature in the series, in Sex and the City 2 Movie, but in real life, the rooftop bar has hosted people like Beyonce, Jesse Metcalfe, after parties from the Tony Awards, and recently a Maroon 5 Concert. The day I snuck in to take some pictures, Macy’s were holding a launch of products. It is very swish, and for me is the epitome of New York style hotels. Sadly no celebratory spotting, but alas it was lovely to have a quick look before the security man with the plastic hanging out his ear spotted me! As I had to be back near Union Square by 5pm to get my permanent reminder of the NYC dream, and given it was after 4pm I headed in the direction of the subway. Like a seasoned pro, I jumped on the first Downtown Yellow line.
On Friday’s, they run a Farmers Market in Union Square. These markets have everything from fresh fruits and vegetables, cured meats, fresh farmed cheeses, artisan breads, jams, pickles, an abundance of cut flowers and plants, wine and ciders!
After seeing the beautiful basil, I was salivating at the picture in my head of a Caprese Salad mmmmmmmmm!
My bargain was a wedge of cheese for $1 (sorry no photo as I got it handed to me and put it straight into my mouth!!) and two bottles of Organic Country Juice for $2.75 (Cranberry and Raspberry Cider, and Apple and Raspberry Juice). Both the juices were deliciously amazing.
By the time I got home Friday night after 7.30pm, I couldn’t believe how far I had walked and can only begin to imagine how much more I will do next week when I move home for the next 10 days before the journey home.
Next update will be from my new home Holiday Inn Express Madison Square Garden. At the tip of the Chelsea district, I am definitely looking forward to discovering the borough that I had initially hoped to sublet in. To celebrate my move, I have booked myself into dinner at Les Halles. Anthony Bourdain’s signature restaurant and hopefully home to a beautiful meal. This week’s plan will also be to line up for some Broadway cheap tickets, and hopefully get a call from one of the many TV taping's I have tried to book into see.
Until the next one,
Lots of love Bee xxx
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